a) Oil
b) Water - 50% antifreeze
c) Brake reservoirs
d) Transaxle

2. Re-bleed the brake system for the final time. The brakes and fluid have had enough time to set, that the final bleeding should release the remainder of the air in the lines.

3. Check all ball joints to be sure all of the cotter pins are installed.

4. Adjust the tightness on the front wheel bearings and install the cotter pin locks.

5. Recommended tire pressure for best tire wear and ride is 18 psi. in the rear and 16 psi. in the front.

6. Suspension alignment

a) Front

i) Castor - 3 degrees negative
ii) Camber ½ degree negative
iii) Total Toe in - 1/8"

b) Rear

i) Camber - ½ degree negative
ii) Total Toe in - 1/8"

7. Be sure to set the thermostat on the electric radiator fan on the low side initially. If the temperature doesn’t come up to about 190 - 200 degrees at an idle in about 10 or 15 minutes, then increase the setting.

8. Check all of the gauges to see if they work properly. The two most important gauges to watch closely are the oil pressure and water temperature, in that order.

9. Work all of the electrical functions one at a time.

a) Headlights, high and low beams
b) Running lights, license plate light
c) Turn indicators, right and left
d) Emergency flashers
e) Radio - if applicable
f) Power antenna
g) A/C unit - fans and clutch on the pump
h) Horn
i) Windshield wipers
j) Or any extra options that you may have installed

10. RE-check the lug nuts on the wheels for tightness

11. ALWAYS BE SURE BEFORE DRIVING YOUR CAR THAT THE TAIL SECTION IS LATCHED CLOSED

12. Brake test your car in an area that will be safe and with no possibility of causing harm to you or your car and most of all anyone else in the area.

First brake test your car at about 10 mph. Then 20 mph and your final test should be at about 30 or 35 mph.

If in your test you tend to have too much brake on the front wheels, (for example, they are locking up) adjust the bias bar on the brake pedal until all of the wheels lock up at the same time.